I visited Imam Khomeini (former Naqsh-e Jahan) Square several years ago. It is one of the largest and most beautiful squares in the world. Measuring 500 x 160 meters, it was set up in the second half of the 16th century AD by the Safavid King, Shah Abbas I. The photo above shows a view looking north, of a protest in response to the announced election results of June 12, 2009. For those who may not know, this is in the exquisitely beautiful city of Esfahan. On the south side of the square is the Imam Mosque. The Ali Ghapou monumental compound is on the west and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque is on the east.
It was March 25, 2004 when, upon leaving Tehran I wrote:
Looking down on the vastness that is Iran, I ponder what will allow it to be free and expressive of its beauty. So rich, yet so sad, physically choking on its own effluent, emotionally it is being strangled by fear. Fear pervades so many decisions made by the people of Iran that we in the west take for granted. Fear of speaking openly; fear that a satellite dish may be taken, in other words, fear of speaking, and listening.
The Islamic Republic of Iran is afraid of information. As with any totalitarian state it must impose its view through fear and intimidation. I realize that only now, as I fly away from Iran over European airspace that I feel free to openly discuss, even with myself, the large contingent of various security forces that are ever present throughout the Republic. From the fighter jets that greet you on the tarmac of Meherabad Airport to the police officers stationed at 50-meter intervals up both sides of Vali Asr Street surrounding a park during the Narooz celebration, the imposition of government security is pervasive.
Such a beautiful, beautiful country. This is one of the rarest of occasions when I feel compelled to evoke prayer. I pray, with Iranians, and all who may join, that a way to peace, through these most difficult of times, can be found.
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